• Peter Lynn Scorpion kite launch (2008.Mar.22)
• Peter Lynn Twin Skins not inflating fully (2007.Feb.22)
• New Kite - Line lengths (2006.Aug.29)
• Repairing Twin Skins (2006.Feb.06)
• Tenslyon line (2005.Oct.9)
• Spars - Cutting, Attaching, Connecting
• Comparing Spar lengths of Compact Sticks on Twin Skins
• Comparing sizes of foils to Twin Skins (TS)
• Dyneema SK65/75 kite line
• Replacing C-Quad spars or pivotting T-Joints
• Line strengths (kilogram/pound convert, conversion)
• Winding lines (bar/handles)
• What size is my Rebble?
• Where did traction kiting get started? (The history of traction kiting)

Correct Position above

Incorrect Position above

"The Arc is constructed with Chikara, a light weight, hi-tenacity rip stop nylon with a special water repellant coating. Inside the kite you will find low stretch Dyneema reinforcing lines and gauze vents in the tips of each profile to provide evenly distributed inflation. The tips are reinforced with EXEL-strong carbon fibre tubes in Cordura sleeves.

Construction and Repairs All panels are taped and sewn for strength and water proofing. Line loads are taken into the Arc via Dyneema cording sewn to the inner surfaces of the upper and lower skins. For spanwise strength there is a 300 kgm cord sewn from tip to tip. For small puncture type holes, clear mylar repair film works very well and is always colour matched. For repairing structural damage open the trailing edge (unpick the sewing thread without damaging the ripstop sailcloth), stick fabric patches on using double sided adhesive tape and then over sew. The tape's adhesive layer improves joint strength and seals the stitching. Always use new tape to stick the trailing edge before re-sewing but it isn't necessary to also remove any old tape that is still in place.."

It is important to understand what Tensylon is. Tensylon is made from ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene. Spectra and Dyneema are also made from ultra-high weight polyethylene, however the polyethylene used in Tenyslon is about 100 to 1000 times higher than that used for Dyneema and Spectra. The reason there is a range is because the polyethylene in it’s raw form is a powder and the chemical reaction that makes it generates a range of molecular weight particles. This powder is then subjected to extreme pressures and tightly controlled temperatures as it is passed through rollers to make a very thin sheet that is then slit to form fibers and then the fibers are woven into what you see. If the temperature is raised even slightly beyond the threshold the polyethylene drops in molecular weight and becomes closer to Dyneema and Spectra in abraision resistance and strength and if you continue to raise the temperature it becomes normal polyethylene. If you try to make it in a tube there are a number of problems: the greatest being how do you apply sufficient pressure while making a tube form and secondly if you could how do you keep the temperature throughout the material at the critical point so that the molecules bond together without turning into standard polyethylene.

Cutting can be done by using a fine toothed saw, most commonly a metal saw. To avoid splitting it is preferred to tape (masking tape) the spar before cutting. Be careful with the carbon dust as it can damage electric equipment.

Connectors and fittings can be glued on the carbon spar. For plastic connectors we recommend cyanoacrylatic glue, also know as superglue or crazy glue. For mounting aluminum and brass connectors, two-component epoxy glue is the strongest and best to use. Even electricians tape works very well to fix a joint and this make s it easy to replace the connector

The best way to connect spars is the combination between an outside ferrule (brass or aluminum) and inside ferrule (RCF or RF). If this is not possible - use the outside ferrule. Please remember that a connection will always be the weak link in the kite frame; we prefer to use spars without connections.

One piece replacement spars come in 100/125/150cm lengths. These are the Exel carbonfibre tube Strong 10 9.9mm outer/7.5mm inner diameter from the parts list. The vertical grey bars are the stock 1 piece spar sets that we have. Choose the spar length to the right of your kite. For example, if you need a one piece compact stick replacement spar for a Phantom 12m (116cm), order a 125cm spar and cut it to fit the spar pocket. Updated 2006.Mar.27

For complete kite specifications, check their respective links

• Bomba

• C-Quad

• Guerilla-II

• Pepper

• Phantom

• Reactor

• Rebble

• Spark

• Venom

• Venom-II

• Vortex

Foils traditionally perform differently than TSs. You'll need a larger TS than a foil, but the depowerability of the TS will give it a larger window. In the past you may have needed 4-5 foils to cover the wind ranges. With the depowerability of the TSs, you may only need 3 TSs.

SK75 fibers have a higher strength than SK65, the difference is 2-3%. It’s also more expensive, 20-30%. In previous years all white lines were SK65 and the colour coated lines were SK75.

From 2004 on, we got rid of the SK65/SK75 terminology.

The reason: For 90% of the customers difference between SK65/75 quality does not have any added value, much more important is the quality of the coating and the way the lines are braided. What we do now is deliver 100% DSM Dyneema, braided and coated in the best possible way to create a thin, slick and affordable line.

In practice this means that every line is a mixture of SK65 and SK75 quality. All Peter Lynn products ordered with lines comes with these Dyneema lines. They are also sold separately and also referred as Vector or Vector Quad Pro lines. The pre-cut lines are sleeved and sewn ready to fly.

To replace the pivoting T-Joint remove the leading edge.

No sewing is needed to replace the leading edge. Use a sharp pointy instrument like a darning needle to give slack to all the knots in the bridle lines that connect to the leading edge (keep the bridle intact).

On one of the wing tips there is a little opening or small slit in the black sleeve material (approx. 4cm up from the end) to remove the Leading Edge (LE). Most of the openings are located on the right tips when facing the kite from a flying position.

With a little pushing and shoving you can work the end of the fiber (glass/carbon) spar to this slit and remove the whole thing bit by bit from the sleeve. (Beware of carbon fiber splinters while doing this). [Tip: If you have a long enough piece left over, you could possibly use this as a spare rib spar.]

With the openings next to the connectors, cut the leading edges in pieces for easy removing of the leading edge.
 
Replace the leading edge by putting the new LE in the opening on the tip. Replace any pivoting T-Joints if required. When feeding the leading edge spar through, don't forget to feed it through the pivoting T-Joint connectors.
 
A new spar will be 'oversized'. Trim the end off using a hack saw and flip it in.

For C-Quad specifications, see below.

The Dyneema is pre-cut and sleeved according to the table below. The Q-PowerLine is cut to length.

Here's a topic that deservers some attention.

As a new rider, it all comes down to technique. There are different techniques for different set ups. How stiff are your lines and are you using a kite bar or handles?

Notes:

1. The stiffer/thicker the line, the more likely they are to get twists.

2. If you wind in a circular motion twisting will occur.

Winding lines on a Kite Bar

Because you're winding over the ends of the bar, this technique is simpler than winding on handles. Gather all the lines together at the bar end and start wrapping back and forth from one side of the bar to the other. As mentioned above if you wind in a constant circular motion, you will put twists in the lines as you wind them on the bar. Unless you unwind in exactly the same way, your lines will likely get twisted. Instead of the circular motion, criss-cross the winding in a figure eight  pattern across the bar. Every so often you can even put a lock loop on one or both ends of the bar and especially at the very end of the lines closest to the kite. This should reduce most of the twisting.

Winding lines on a pair of Kite Handles

As this is difficult to explain, we should probably include some pictures. But bare with us for a while until we have some images. We hope to eventually have a video for this one.

Rebbles come in the following sizes 2.5, 3.5, 5.0, and 6.5 square meters. On the right side of the kite when the leading open edge is facing upward, the size is printed in the Rebble logo. 3.5 square meters means the kite when lying flat on the ground is 3.5 square meters.